This is the luxury resort that is just up the road at the brand-new Wynn resort. Its hard
not to evaluate the two, and which you desire will depend on your aesthetics. We
give the edge to Bellagio because even though it is not as theme-intensive as it
could be, it still has some basics drawn from its charming Lake Como village
namesake, and we do favor even our resorts to have some of that Vegas
madness, however faint. In this case, its an 8-acre Lake Como stand-in out
front, complete with a dazzling choreographed water-ballet extravaganza, plus a
representation of an Italian lakeside village, while the pool area is sort of
Hearst Castle Romanesque. However, dont think this is not greatly like an escape
to a peaceful, romantic Italian village because its not. But it is precisely like
going to a big, majestic, state-of-the-art Vegas hotel. To presume more probably
isnt fair, but then again, they tried to set the tone with marvelous, soft-focus
TV ads aired when the hotel debuted. Nothing with a casino stuck in the middle
of it can be that peaceful and soothing.
But does it work as a luxury hotel? Kind of. It surely is much closer to a
European casino hotel than a Vegas one. Wonderful touches abound, including a
lobby thats different any other in Vegas. Its not just luxurious, with marble and a
flashy blown-glass flower figurine on the ceiling (the largest of its kind in
the world), but its also brave with plants, native lighting, and actual
seating. Theres also a downright lovely conservatory, complete with a
100-year-old fountain and stuffed full of gorgeous, brightly decorated flowers and
plants, preposterously (and delightfully) changed every few weeks to go with the
season (yellows and whites for Easter, for example, although we could have done
without the gianormous animatronic bald eagle chicks as part of the very
flashy July 4 decor) -- its one of the sweetest spots in all of Vegas.
On the downside, you still cant elude a stroll through the casino to get just
about anywhere (with the inevitable commotion shattering your peaceful state every
time you exit the elevators from your room). At least the casino is laid out in
an simple-to-traverse grid with extensive aisles. (Tip: Black floral
carpets specify the main casino paths.) There are obscure charges galore (a
pricey fee for the spa, another one for poolside cabanas). The rooms are very
pleasant, better than ever thanks to a modern rebuild that changed the colors from the
usual resort-sand to a more cosmopolitan look with handsome sage greens and dark
woods, but given the relatively minor size, it may still not be enough for the
price. (Having said that, you can find deals on their website for as low as $139
depending on day of week and time of year.) Furnishings are luxurious (good cushy
beds with quality linens, comfy chairs), the spacious bathrooms even more so
(marble and glass plus good-smelling soap and hair dryers -- it works every
time), but its all just a busier and slightly more luxurious variation on
whats found over at TI at the Mirage. Strip-side rooms, while featuring a
much-desired view of the hotels dancing water fountains , dont quite muffle
the booms said fountains make as they explode (although we didnt find it
annoying). Rooms in the new Spa Tower are more pleasing if you want a shorter
walk to the pool and the gym and spa areas (guests in the original building will
have a long jog around the casino perimeter instead), but only a "partial"
(read: a bit set back with a parking lot in the foreground) view of the
fountains. Reminder: that a channel on the TV will play the songs as the fountains
dance because you cant fully hear the melody from your room. Still, service is
top-notch, despite the size of the place; the workforce is eager to please and
nonpatronizing.
Bellagio also features an upscale casino and O, one of the most
incredible shows yet from Cirque du Soleil.
The hotels pool area has skidded to the top of our favorites list; it boasts
six swimming pools (two heated year-round and two with fountains) geometrically
set in a neoclassical Roman garden, with flowered, trellised archways and
Italian opera piped in over the sound system. The Grand Patio could have come
right off a movie set (pillars, domes, you get the idea). Arguably a more
sophisticated environment than the tropical party over at The Mirage (our other
favorite), it is clearly to be the place where thonged model types hang out with
moneyed Eurotrash -- it comes off as that chic.
The newly redone health club is marvelous, large, and well stocked with
top-of-the-line machines, with native light coming in through windows to the
outside world, but at $25 a pop, its pretty pricey if all you want is a simple
session on a treadmill (though with your fee, you are allowed to return
throughout the day for additional soakings/steamings/workouts). Attendants ply
you with iced towels and drinks. The also revamped spa is not quite as pretty as
some others around town, but it does offer a full range of pricey treatments and
has a serene soaking area, with plunge pools ranging in temperature from icy to
boiling. In addition to drinks and snacks, smoothies are sometimes offered --
take one.
The shopping area, called Via Bellagio, features all the stores that
advertise in color in glossy magazines: Tiffany, Armani, Gucci, Prada, Herms,
and the like. Theres also an art gallery that boasts enough highly
regarded works to draw some million visitors a year.
What does all this add up to? As good as a casino-hotel can provide and
perform the duties of a luxury resort experience, certainly. If it doesnt quite
work, thats probably more the fault of the initial concept than the hotel
itself.
Facilities: Casino; showrooms; wedding chapel; 14 restaurants; 6
outdoor pools; fitness center and spa; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk;
business center; 24-hr. room service; in-room massage; laundry service; dry
cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executive-level rooms.
